At the southern extremity of the Central Highlands is the city of Dalat. Originally built by the French colonists, Dalat still bears a passing resemblance to a French town, an impression that is diminishing as Vietnamese-style buildings proliferate.
Dalat can be reached by air, but only from Ho Chi Minh City. However the drive from the south is quite satisfying, especially as you climb up through rubber, mulberry, coffee and tea plantations. The road from Dalat to Highway 1 and Nha Trang is also gratifying with plenty to see on way.
There are some good hotels, the crown going to the excellent Sofitel Dalat Palace, arguably one of Vietnam’s best, but there are very few restaurants serving anything other than Vietnamese food.
‘Discovered’ by Dr. Alexandre Yersin at the end of the 19th century, Dalat grew into a large hill station attracting French civil servants, administrators and military personnel seeking a refuge from the heat and humidity of the Mekong and the coastal plain.
Located high in the mountains nearly 1500m above sea level, Dalat is now popular with Vietnamese visitors because it has a cool and equable climate usually remaining between 10º C and 20º C throughout the year. This ‘eternal spring’ is responsible for its increasing importance as a fruit and flower growing area. First class blooms, soft fruits and vegetables are grown for export and airlifted all over Asia.
With a population of 300,000, Nha Trang is the closest thing to a European resort centre in Vietnam, but still retains its Vietnamese culture and its small town atmosphere. The city is flanked by nearly ten kilometres of prime beach and benefits from an all-year-round warm climate and an attractive archipelago of offshore islands. Further out in the South China Sea are the Spratly islands, mostly occupied by Vietnam but claimed by several south-east Asian countries including China.
The city is well-served by transport links. Both the railway and Highway 1 runs past, and a new international airport has just opened on the site of a wartime US airstrip at nearby Cam Ranh.
The beach is mostly backed by palms and firs, and a row of restaurants and cafes fronting on to a seafront road that runs the length of the city. Most of Nha Trang's hotels are on the landward side of the road and further back in the city. Notable exceptions are two up-market resort hotels, one a small establishment located on the seaward side of the beach road at its southern extremity, and the other much larger, hidden from view in a secluded bay on the far side of Hon Tre Island.
The sea is Nha Trang's main attraction. Warm and clear for most of the year, with sandy beaches and rocky islands with coral reefs, it has become the most popular destination in Vietnam for scuba diving, snorkelling, water sports and sunbathing. Boat trips around the bay and up the Cai River are also popular.
There's plenty of choice for places to eat – Vietnamese, Asian and international, and prices are good. The Louisiana Café does excellent pastries and has a good swimming pool free for customers. The Italian and Indian restaurants next to the Nha Trang Sailing Club are worth a visit.
The Po Nagar Cham Towers are an impressive sight. Built between the 7th and 12th centuries on a site overlooking the Cai River, it was used by Cham Hindus.
Not far from the Po Nagar Towers is the excellent Thap Ba Spa. Natural hot mineral water and mud is pumped up to feed a series of open-air mud baths and mineral showers on terraces on the mountainside. The baths and showers are a treat – unless you have a thing about privacy, the communal baths are the best deal by far. You don't need equipment: a towel and a baggy swimming costume comes as part of the package.
Once you've finished wallowing, there's a splendid hot mineral water pool to lounge in as long as you wish. Massage and body treatments are also available. All this is located in a gorgeous garden of paper trees and hibiscus. Not to be missed!
Day 1: Saigon - Dalat
A highland haven dotted with lakes, waterfalls, pine forests and gardens, Dalat is Vietnam’s premier honeymoon spot. Established as a hill station at the beginning of the century, Dalat, located on the Lang Biang Plateau with its French chalets, is reminiscent of an alpine town. Depart early from Saigon for the 300km road journey (around seven hours), stopping by at La Nga Lake to admire its floating houses. The journey towards Dalat also includes a stop to visit tea and coffee plantations in Bao Loc. Eat lunch at a nice eatery in Bao Loc. Spend the rest of the day at your leisure. Dinner is on your own. Overnight in Dalat (L).
Day 2: Dalat
Mid-morning, take a horse-cart ride along the beautiful Xuan Huong Lake where the air is fresh and the scenery is lush. The city of eternal spring is also known for its fresh local produce, and you will get the chance to visit beautiful farms full of vegetables, flowers and strawberries. In addition to offering a cool mountainous retreat, Dalat is also home to spectacular religious structures. Another venue worth a visit is the Museum of French architecture, created at the end of the 19th century in French Indochina. Embark on a drive around the city and admire the splendor of old French mansions and shady roads on Tran Hung Dao Street. Pay a visit to Dalat Railway Station, which displays the architectural style of the East of France. Then drive to Domain de Marie church, used by Catholic nuns of the Missionary of Charity sect. Built in 1938 atop a hill, it offers stunning panoramic views. Spend the remainder of the day strolling through the colorful Dalat market with your guide or just explore the city of flowers on your own. Independent lunch and dinner. Overnight in Dalat (B).
Day 3: Dalat - Nha Trang
After breakfast, depart for the 2.5-hour drive to Nha Trang. After arrival and check-in at Nha Trang, have a leisurely day at the beach, relaxing, swimming or engaging in the numerous water sports available. Overnight in Nha Trang (B).
Day 4: Nha Trang
Nha Trang is known for its fabulous sunny weather, turquoise waters, and a white sandy beach stretching the whole length of the city. Enjoy one of Vietnam's premier beach destinations with a half-day boat cruise around the Nha Trang bay. Visit the beautiful islands and tranquil beaches for sun, sand and sea. Return to your hotel around noon and enjoy the remainder of the day. Overnight in Nha Trang (B).
Day 5: Departure
A day of leisure, whether you want to explore the town or lie on the beach, until you depart for the onward flight. End of service (B).
Bao Dai’s Villa sounds an interesting place to stay, but the reality is a disappointment. The state rooms would have has a tremendous view in the Emperor’s day, but now they look out at an ugly aluminium and glass restaurant.
The Long Son Pagoda is impressive inside and out. Above the pagoda on the top of a hill is. a giant seated Buddha that dominates the city. The 152 steps are worth the effort because the views are brilliant.
All around Nha Trang are references to the Dr. Alexandre Yersin, a Swiss-French microbiologist who lived much of his life in Nha Trang and is famous as the person who first identified the plague bacillus in 1894. The Pasteur Institute he founded is still active, and his library and office on the second floor is a museum.